Kathy K. Wylie Quilting » needle-turn

Partial Seams in Hand Appliqué

kkwylie — Thu, 22 Apr 2010 12:09:29 +0000

In my last post, I mentioned that I used partial seams in the appliqué on my current quilt project. I gave a brief description of this technique but thought I would follow up with more detail in this week’s article.

Sometimes, in our appliqué, we are faced with the dilemma of determining the order in which each patch will be stitched. These decisions are particularly critical in designs where the appliqué overlaps. Which patch goes under and which patch goes over? The implication of these choices is that any part of a patch that is underneath another patch doesn’t need to be stitched. It also means that patches that are under must be sewn before patches that are over.

Let’s look at an example. Here are two patches: A and B. Patch A appears to be on top of patch B because it extends over the left edge of B. This would mean that we stitch patch B first and patch A second. However, if we sew the patches in this order, we will have to manage an extremely skinny point at red circle #2. If we reverse the order, we have a slightly more manageable point at red circle #1 but we might ruin the illusion that patch A is on top of patch B.

This is where partial seams come in. A blue line marks the mid-point of the seam between patch A and patch B. If we split the seam at this point, patch A can be stitched over patch B to the left of the blue line and patch B can be sewn over patch A to the right of the blue line. Perfect! As patch A covers patch B at red circle #1, the point on patch B is created. But even more importantly, as patch B is stitched over patch A at red circle #2, that very skinny point in patch A becomes perfectly executed.

So how, exactly, do we appliqué this partial seam? First, mark the split point on the freezer paper templates and transfer this marking to each appliqué fabric as it is traced (see article on preparing patches for needle-turn appliqué). Next, cut out each patch with a seam allowance and clip through the seam allowance at the marking.

Begin stitching with the patch that appears to be under, in this case, patch B. Appliqué the left edge of patch B, leaving the area that will be covered by patch A (to the left of the blue line) unstitched. Appliqué the right edge of patch B but stop an inch or two before reaching red circle #2. Don’t knot or clip the thread – leave it for completing the stitching later.

Position patch A and begin stitching the right edge, again leaving the area that will be covered by patch B unstitched. Appliqué patch A, overlapping patch B, until the split point. Knot and clip the thread for patch A. Rethread the needle with the thread for patch B and complete the appliqué, overlapping patch A, until the split point. Knot and clip the thread for patch B. The split point will be virtually indetectable and both points will be perfect!

Appliqué Marking Tools

kkwylie — Wed, 27 Jan 2010 21:28:12 +0000

Last week, we talked about how to prepare patches for needle-turn appliqué. The process involves marking the design onto the background fabric as well as marking each motif on the individual appliqué fabrics. What tools do we need for the job?

Removable Fabric Markers
Obviously, we need fabric markers. The marks should be removable, just in case some of the appliqué doesn’t line up perfectly. I have two favorite markers: one for light fabrics and one for dark fabrics.

Light Fabrics
“The Fine Line” is a water erasable pen that marks in blue. I like it because the tip is very fine and it makes a nice, thin line. You can also get an eraser pen, which removes the blue markings. This is great for fixing up mistakes! But I find the best way to remove the lines completely is to immerse the block in water. Spritzing or dabbing the lines with water appears to work, but often some of the blue returns once the area has dried.

Dark Fabrics
Clover’s white marking pen is erasable with a hot iron as well as water. Just take note that the marks take a few seconds to appear, so be patient. The white lines show up well on the darker fabrics where a blue line wouldn’t. Sometimes, I go over the lines a second time to make the white lines brighter. Mistakes are easily corrected by ironing over them, but just be careful not to iron your marked fabric until you’re done with the lines!

Sandpaper Board
A sandpaper board is incredibly useful for marking fabrics. It is placed underneath the fabric to keep it from shifting. You can purchase a sandpaper board specifically for this purpose, or you can make one yourself. Simply attach a sheet of fine grit sandpaper to a sturdy mounting board.

Fabric on sandpaper board

Preparing Patches for Needle-turn Appliqué

kkwylie — Wed, 20 Jan 2010 22:07:45 +0000

There are many methods for hand appliqué and everyone has their personal preferences. My favorite is needle-turn. When it comes right down to it, every method is stitched the same way in the end. So what differentiates each method is the way the patches are prepared beforehand.

This is why I prefer needle-turn appliqué. There is no need for basting to freezer paper. There is no need to reverse the pattern as with methods that work from the back. There is nothing that must be removed once the stitching is complete. Here is how I prepare the patches for needle-turn appliqué.

1. Mark the Background Fabric

Marking the background fabric

If it is possible to see through the background fabric, trace the entire appliqué design onto the background fabric. I use a light box for this step, but you can also use a bright window or place a light under a glass-top table. Having the design marked on the background provides the most accurate placement for each patch.

If the background fabric is dark and cannot be traced, then it needs to be marked from the top. Simple appliqué designs can be marked on the background the same way they are marked on the appliqué fabric in Step 3. For more complex designs, a sheet of graphite paper or other transfer paper can be placed between the design on top and the background fabric on the bottom. Tracing over the design lines with a sharp pencil on the top layer will transfer the design to the fabric.

Make sure that the markings are removable, since everything rarely lines up perfectly. Next week I’ll review my favorite tools for marking fabric.

2. Make Freezer Paper Templates

Making a freezer paper template

Trace every unique patch in the design onto freezer paper, label it and record any other important information about stitching that patch. (For example, you might note areas where part of one patch is covered by another.) Cut out the freezer paper patches on the traced lines. The freezer paper is not used for basting, but for marking the appliqué fabric. Freezer paper templates can be reused, so multiple patches can share a single template.

3. Mark the Appliqué Fabric

Ironing freezer paper on appliqué fabric

Marking the appliqué fabric

Iron the freezer paper patch onto the right side of the appropriate appliqué fabric. Trace around the edges of the freezer paper, again using a marker that will be removable. Transfer any markings. Carefully remove the freezer paper. Repeat as necessary.

4. Cut out the Appliqué Patches

Cutting out the appliqué patch

Cut out each patch leaving a scant ¼” seam allowance. “Scant” typically means “slightly less than”, the logic being that this is easier to visualize than, say, 3/16″.

And that’s it! The patches are now ready for needle-turn appliqué. Just line up each patch with the markings on the background fabric, and away you go.