In my last post, I mentioned that I used partial seams in the appliqué on my current quilt project.  I gave a brief description of this technique but thought I would follow up with more detail in this week’s article.

Sometimes, in our appliqué, we are faced with the dilemma of determining the order in which each patch will be stitched.  These decisions are particularly critical in designs where the appliqué overlaps.  Which patch goes under and which patch goes over?  The implication of these choices is that any part of a patch that is underneath another patch doesn’t need to be stitched.  It also means that patches that are under must be sewn before patches that are over.

Let’s look at an example.  Here are two patches:  A and B.  Patch A appears to be on top of patch B because it extends over the left edge of B.  This would mean that we stitch patch B first and patch A second.  However, if we sew the patches in this order, we will have to manage an extremely skinny point at red circle #2.  If we reverse the order, we have a slightly more manageable point at red circle #1 but we might ruin the illusion that patch A is on top of patch B.

This is where partial seams come in.  A blue line marks the mid-point of the seam between patch A and patch B.  If we split the seam at this point, patch A can be stitched over patch B to the left of the blue line and patch B can be sewn over patch A to the right of the blue line.  Perfect!  As patch A covers patch B at red circle #1, the point on patch B is created.  But even more importantly, as patch B is stitched over patch A at red circle #2, that very skinny point in patch A becomes perfectly executed.

So how, exactly, do we appliqué this partial seam?  First, mark the split point on the freezer paper templates and transfer this marking to each appliqué fabric as it is traced (see article on preparing patches for needle-turn appliqué).  Next, cut out each patch with a seam allowance and clip through the seam allowance at the marking.

Begin stitching with the patch that appears to be under, in this case, patch B.  Appliqué the left edge of patch B, leaving the area that will be covered by patch A (to the left of the blue line) unstitched.  Appliqué the right edge of patch B but stop an inch or two before reaching red circle #2.  Don’t knot or clip the thread – leave it for completing the stitching later.

Position patch A and begin stitching the right edge, again leaving the area that will be covered by patch B unstitched.  Appliqué patch A, overlapping patch B, until the split point.  Knot and clip the thread for patch A.  Rethread the needle with the thread for patch B and complete the appliqué, overlapping patch A, until the split point.  Knot and clip the thread for patch B.  The split point will be virtually indetectable and both points will be perfect!